California Baja, Meh-i-co

12/05/2010

Met some "Sukers" (American drinkers), they were from the Baja 2000 rider team, who i sat up late drinking with and finding out bout their stupid antics in general.My new friend Miguel called the hostel to ask if i wanted to join him and his two girls to go on a day trip north to the hot springs, i of course said yes and he was on his way to pick me up in 15minutes. It took a while to get there, stopping off to buy a feast at the minimarket. His youngest daughter Sandra fell in love with me, as i did her, even though we did not understand one another it seems words do not matter as what they say is true, actions do speak louder than words. Miguel said he had a surprise for me on arrival to the hot springs. We arrived, in the middle of a four way valley in Saint Carlos, just outside of Ensanada, to see some purpose built pools, some natural some man made but all with naturally hot water, apart from the cold one which is of course for the contrast. The natural ones have sand and minerals at the bottom of the pools which burn your feet when u dig into them. i feel so refreshed, tired and clean now. we drunk red wine, then after swimming Miguel showed me his surprise, several lobsters, one for each of us. some were massive, he showed me the correct way to handle them and what happens if this is not applied. A fair bit of alcohol was consumed by all, especially Miguel, the driver. Got home about 10.30pm and fell straight into a deep sleep.

Pleiades stars, are a group of stars which the Mayans would use to determine when to plant the crops for the following year. if you can see 5 or more than this is a positive sign and means rains will be good and planting can commence in like march april. if there are less than 5 this means rains wont come until later in the year and therefore planting needs to be postponed until October/November, something like that, interesting.

Orions belt, is such a reassuring constellation to see. Whenever i feel slightly lost i look into the sky and then sure enough orions belt is there and immediately i dont feel lost anymore, like it is looking over me or something. Orions constellation is refered to the hunter in greek mythology, maybe it is hunting me rather than protecting, either way i like it. when i get into the southern hemisphere however the point of view will be changed so i can expect to loose that belt of confidence in exchange for something else. Almost makes me feel at home, and the realisation that we are all on such a small place sharing same atmosphere looking at same stars means we are not very far apart from anything.

The stars are amazing out here, and everynight i give thanks to them for shining so bright and pay attention to constellations and arrangements. Its all about the small things right, and this is a great example of how small things to the eye or as simply as looking into the sky can mean so much inside, and once up close a star isnt so small.

Cubacora myth- i heard about the chubacora iniatially from the Dirt bikers, one of them was paranoid to drive across the Europan becauseof it. i think it is a myth that has arisen out of driving in the middle of nowhere for many hours and then being tricked by the light and many flying things. They say the Chubacora stays knelt down until you are near it and then rises up tall, spreading its wings, nearly 6ft tall. Miguel thinks this myth was introduced by the governement in some messed up way to divert attention from the crash of the economy. Like Influenza which was a government scheme to control some of the population, as many people suffer from flu naturally in the winter, the government made a big deal of it in previous years so people were scared to even shake hands. Also they are trying to regulate health shops into limiting the amound if vitamins sold, so now they have to be sold under the counter in some places.

Erindia Coyote Cals- I found about this place from the hostel I stayed at in San Diego, and then when Miguel picked me up from the bus he spoke many good things about Rick the owner, he made him out to sound like a really nice guy who was into spirituality, this excited me. I got there to find the owner was absent for that weekend and Lulu the manager was in charge, she was lovely, but suffering from the flu, i helped her out and tried to make her feel better. we played guitar together and she taught me some bits. Over the weekend i heard various different stories about Rick and my initial opinion was being tarnished. i never judge people on  others stories and tried to keep that in mind. on the monday morning 
Lulu left for a few days to go be with her family and Rick returned, i was out for the day and when i got back, the whole place was in darkness, it was scary, like the begining of a scary movie, i went upstairs to sort my stuff out and when i looked out the window i could see someone walking around in the darkness, no one made themselves known, i was completly freaked out, especially with the sound of neighbouring dogs barking at something that wasnt quite right. so i called my friend, who came to collect me and my stuff. the next morning i ran with 2 dogs and another i picked up on route, up to the hostel to settle my bill, the bins had been knocked over and things weren't normal as i was used to. Met Rick, said he thought my travellers cheque was fake, and then he said i had signed it incorrectly, and then he ended by saying to have it all for free and to leave immediately. so i did, quite happy i hadnt paid, but disappointed he was as much of a dick as everyone had made out. i was slightly disappointed about this as i was really keen to get involved on a ceremony in the sweat lodge. This time was not my time obviously.

   

Seen soo many dead dogs up to now too. not very nice. Monday get ready to leave, end up in San Viciente with Miguel and his family. we go to a town further south about an hour away to go to the bank which i miss by 20 mins. it only took an hour an a half to get there. We had nice Chinese then back to stay in his Caravan outside small castle. He had had a profound dream about me being an oriental master or something with wings, I am here to help him, him and his daughter do not want me to go, they want to hold on to me as i bring them good energy which has been lacking in their life since the mother left some months before. I am pleased to help and offer kind words and positive energy. Me and Sandra cannot really communicate as she speaks fast and mumbles, bit like me, so conversation is pretty slow for understanding but both parts are happy all the same. Tomorrow i will set off on my journey south to Mulege about 600miles away, on the east coast of the peninsula, on the sea of Cortez. where it will be warm clear waters ripe for swimming apparently. Miguel may drive me which would be fab, and i wil get to drive his lush 4x4 too, sweet.

So Me and Miguel set off on the Wednesday morning, i drive for 4 hours through arid desert and mountainous areas, its a pretty sketchy drive, hair pin bends and steep cliffs, slim roads and on coming 18 wheeler trucks. After 4hours and 2 beers or so and nearly coming off road once i decide to swap to passenger position so i can take in the scenery. We drive another couple of hours and decide to cut the days ambition of 600 miles down as the sun is setting we turn off to head to Bahia Los Angeles, a beautiful fishing village on the east coast, on arrival to the bay we are greated by 24 little volcanic islands, beautiful. spend the night co-ercing with locals and eating fine food and wine.  The next morning we set off and Miguel drops me at the border to California Baja Sur, where he gets me a ride with a truck driver who is heading to cabo (Southern most point). I am consistently in communication with instincts and  get out at Mulege, which is a tropical paradise. Situated in the river mouth the environment is very green and diverse, I arrive in just enough light hours to make it to the beach to see the sun set over the river. Once i was there i was feeling pretty stranded as it was a 3km walk and it was now dark, so i stayed in the little shack, El Patron to eat some fresh fish, which i ate tiger fish of course and scallops = YUM. stayed the evening talking to this elderly man 'chica' about language and local medications, he insisted on driving me back absolutely wasted, which was slightly sketchy plus i could barely understand what he was saying but a most enjoyable evening all in all. 

  

My next stop was La Paz, a really built up cosmopolitan city, romantic restaurants, ice cream joints and gourmet coffee, a little way in a boat, Espiritu island, they have sea lions, and shark whales which i have the pleasure of swimming with (the former), it was probably one of the best experiences I've had the pleasure to enjoy. At one point there was a male near me, which you are supposed to avoid, i was copying its movements above and below water which must of seemed threatening so it came at me with its mouth open and teeth bearing, it was scary. I wish i could go back there.

12/11/10 Eve of the birthday of Saint Guadalupe, go to local church to see begining of festivities. Arrive in church to see native Indian dances and elaborate head wear but dancing for a Catholic purpose. They have truly lost their culture here. We see pagan style dances in the street with the virgin Mary printed on their shirts. 

I delve more into the history. There are many missions all through Mexico and America. The Spanish put the first mission in Lorreto just south of Mulege, around 1750, native Indians were adverse to the idea but did not intervene, the missions mission was to convert everyone, the indigenous people did not want to be converted so were therefore killed. Many indians were killed so in the end it became a choice of survival to convert.

In north America/Canada the same problem, over 60million buffulos were slaugthered just for the sake of showing power from the military, the native Indians were told to live in a a special compound, initailly the Indians killed the main guy and around 200 of his men, but then more troupes came and the Indians never wanted to fight but to live in their land and to live a peaceful life. The white men could not have this as they had already told the Indians this was the case, so they killed all the buffulos so eventually many of the Indians died of starvation.

It makes me feel sick to think that they have been forced to loose their culture that some cannot even see it now, they are so forcefully integrated that some don't even know of their origins.

The same happened to the Aboriginals. Who is going to fight for equally that apparently we all want.